Hale
Village,
Cheshire,
L24
Find me in my field of grass,
Mother Nature's son,
Swaying daisies sing a lazy song beneath the
sun
(Mother Nature's Son, by Paul McCartney and
John Lennon, 1968)
I'm just a child of nature,
I don't need much to set me free,
I'm just a child of nature,
I'm one of nature's children
(Child Of Nature, by John Lennon, 1968)
This is
a continuation of my earlier post about Dungeon Lane and the Oglet Shore line, a
favourite playground for Paul McCartney and his brother Michael, George
Harrison, and their gang of mates growing up around Speke during the 1950s. I
retrace their footsteps out of the Speke council estate into the open
countryside towards the tiny township of Hale..
In his
biography of McCartney, Many Years from Now,
Barry Miles describes how Paul and Mike, like many of their generation
living on the new Speke Housing Estate in the postwar period, were raised on
the border of country and city:
For
Paul and Michael, the best thing about living in Speke was the countryside. In
a couple of minutes they could be in Dungeon Lane, which led through the fields
to the banks of the Mersey. The river is very wide at this point, with the
lights of Ellesmere Port visible on the far side across enormous shifting banks
of mud and sand pecked over by gulls. On a clear day you could see beyond the
Wirral all the way to Wales.
Paul:
This is where my love of the country came from, I was always able to take my
bike and in five minutes I’d be in quite deep countryside. I remember the Dam
woods, which had millions of rhododendron bushes. We used to have dens in the
middle of them because they get quite bare in the middle so you could squeeze
in. I’ve never seen that many rhododendrons since. (McCartney, Many Years from Now, Barry Miles)
Ellesmere Port, from Hale Head, "Paul
and Michael", cyclists on the coastal path.
Paul
and Mike would often cycle the two and a half miles along the shoreline to the
lighthouse at Hale Head, where the river makes a 90-degree turn, giving a
panoramic view across the mud and navigation channels to the industrial complex
of Runcorn on the far side. These are lonely, cold, windy places, the distant
factories and docks dwarfed by the size of the mud banks of the river itself.
It was
not without danger. Paul was mugged there once while messing about with his
brother on the beach near the old lighthouse. His watch was stolen and he had
to go to court because they knew the youths that did it. One of them lived in the house behind the
McCartney's.
Paul: They were a couple of hard kids who said
"Give us that watch" and they got it. The police took them to court
and I had to go and be a witness against them. Dear me, my first time in court. (McCartney, Many Years from Now, Barry Miles)
The scene of the crime. The control tower of
Speke Airport is visible in the distance
Mike McCartney paints this picture
of their times on the Mersey shoreline: We
walked along the top of the cliffs with our bikes, entirely disregarding the
magnificent view over the River Mersey to the Wirral and Welsh Wales,
preferring to look down into the grass for any lost money. The top of the
cliffs was the spot where loving couples met and did all that 'rolling round'
on the ground.... (and not finding any money - it had been raining) .. we
joined a gang of Garston lads playing "chicken" on their bikes. All
one had to do was ride one's bike down the sheer cliff face and stay on. Evel Knievel would have been proud of the
Evil McCartney brothers as they risked death numerous times. It was either that
or get beaten up by the Garston "they play tick with hatchets" gang.
(Mike McCartney, Thank U Very Much)
Sometimes, however, rather than play with his
friends, Paul preferred to be alone. He'd carry his Observer's Book of Birds
and wander down Dungeon Lane to the lighthouse on a nature ramble or climb over
the fence and go walking in the fields. He would later admit: This is what I
was writing about in ‘Mother Nature’s Son’, it was basically a heart-felt song
about my child-of-nature leanings. (McCartney,
Many Years from Now, Barry Miles)
The
Speke estate (top left) on the northern shore of the Mersey with the open
countryside towards Hale on the right. Hale Head is bottom right (click to
enlarge)
Liverpool
has its own identity. It's even got its own accent within about a ten miles
radius. Once you go outside that ten miles it's 'deep Lancashire, lad'. I think
you do feel that apartness, growing up there (Paul McCartney, Anthology)
Living
in Speke Paul didn't even have to travel ten miles. Whether cycling with his
brother, or out on a family walk with Jim and Mary, a favourite destination was
the picturesque township of Hale, where as if living beyond an invisible borderline, the
locals spoke with a Lancashire accent, not a Scouse one. Leaving Ardwick Road
and turning from Oldbridge Road onto Central Way, right onto Eastern Avenue and
then left onto Hale Road they'd be out of the estate and surrounded by fields
within a quarter of an hour.
Hale
Road looking towards Hale from Speke
Often the McCartneys would take the coastal
path, today designated "The Mersey Way", which closely follows the
edge of farmland on the north bank of the river, heading to Hale Head, once the
southernmost point in Lancashire, where they'd stop and look at the lighthouse.
The Lighthouse at Hale Head
The
first lighthouse was established here in 1838; the original octagonal structure
was superseded by the present taller round tower in 1906. Still a functioning lighthouse during the
McCartney's time in Speke the light was discontinued in 1958 when there was no
longer any shipping on the north side of the river. Today the building remains
in use as a private residence.
I
followed the McCartneys' walk inland from the lighthouse, heading for St Mary's Church,
its tower visible across freshly ploughed fields, and the township of Hale with
its many whitewashed cottages, thatched roofs and country gardens set against a
backdrop of maturing trees.
The Runcorn - Widnes Bridge, viewed from Hale
Head
Anybody
walking up from the lighthouse today is afforded some great views of the
industrial areas on the banks of this part of the Mersey, most of it built in
the last 50 years.
Looking towards Widnes and Runcorn today the horizon is
dominated by the bridge that links both towns, a replacement for the old
Transporter Bridge built in 1901 and still in use until the start of the 1960s
(see below).
Construction
work began on the current bridge on 25 April 1956, five days before the
McCartneys left Speke.
Building of the bridge itself commenced in March 1958
with the side spans completed by November 1959. The main arch was built by
cantilevering steelwork from the side spans until it met in the middle in
November 1960.
Main arch construction (1960)
From
February 1960 approach roads and viaducts were being built on both sides of the
river and the bridge was officially opened on 21 July 1961. The Beatles would
use the bridge regularly until the end of 1963, Neil Aspinall driving them in
their van to venues across Cheshire, South Wirral and North Wales.
Knowingly
or otherwise, the McCartneys may have crossed paths with the Harrisons here.
Like Jim McCartney George's father Harry was a keen gardener and in addition to
growing vegetables in the Upton Green back garden the Harrisons had an
allotment in Hale, most likely just off Carr Lane on the left of where the old
Nurseries used to be on Morecott Lane*
It was
here that George is said to have first felt the lure of horticulture -
something he would later devote much of his time to. Hale is known for its rich
and fertile soil and George would always remember the pleasant feeling he got
from pushing his fingers into it.
St
Mary's Church in Church End is now a designated Grade II listed building. The
site was occupied by a chapel as far back as 1081 which later served as the
burial place of its founder, John of Ireland, whose remains seem to have been
transferred to the later building. The tower is the oldest part of the church
that now stands on the site and dates from the 14th century. The walls of the
nave date from 1758 but the interior is a 1980 recreation resulting from a
devastating arson attack in 1977 which destroyed everything but the nave walls
and the ancient tower.
The
Church was a popular stop on a day out for the McCartney boys, the graveyard
being the final resting place of Hale's most famous son.
According to folklore,
John Middleton was one of the tallest men in history. Born in 1578, the 'Childe
of Hale', as he became known, grew to a fantastical height of 9ft 3in (2.82m),
if his epitaph is to be believed.
Surrounded
by railings the worn gravestone is inscribed 'Here lyeth the bodie of John
Middleton, the Childe - nine feet three'. Paul and Michael would stare at his
grave in wonder. It certainly makes you think.
Sadly, no official
record of John Middleton's true height exists to prove - or disprove - his
gravestone's lofty claim.
It is thought that
Middleton visited Brasenose College in Oxford with his patron, Sir Gilbert
Ireland, who had studied there. Elizabeth Boardman, archivist at the college,
said "The tradition is John Middleton left an impression of his hand on
the wall - we know that Samuel Pepys saw that in 1668, but it doesn't survive
anymore". At some point the span of
the handprint was measured and was reputed to be between 15 and 17 inches
(38-43 cm).
According to the
Guinness World Records someone with a hand span of this size would have "a
probable height of 7ft 9in (2.36m)" - somewhat shorter than the legend but
impressive nonetheless.
Arguments about
John's height continued even after his death.
In 1768 his remains were removed from his grave by the schoolmaster and
parish clerk and measured. Reportedly his thigh bones each stretched from the
hip of an average sized man to his foot which would give him a height of around
9ft 3in. This is the figure the locals now appear to have settled on.
If you
dig graves there are some other headstones of interest close to John
Middleton's which you should look for. This one (left) lies alongside
Middleton. I wonder if, like me, Paul and Mike saw the skull and crossbones and
then crouched to examine the weathered inscription, hoping it would confirm a
suspicion that this was indeed the grave of a pirate or buccaneer? I have
since tried to establish what this symbol represents and have found various
conflicting explanations. Pirates were said to be Liverpool's first great
entrepreneurs, in the city with the permission from the Monarch to kill and
plunder enemy vessels on the high seas but there appears to be no truth that a
skull and cross bones marks the grave of a pirate. The primary reason for
skulls appearing on a memorial or headstone was as a Memento Mori, a reminder
of our own mortality.
At the
rear of the church is this grave (left) which looks to receive special care,
and rightly so. There are three other
graves dating from the Great War in St. Mary's graveyard, and two from the
Second World War.
When leaving the graveyard be on the lookout
for this tomb which appears to have a doorknob. Again I can find no definitive
explanation for what this might signify. Perhaps it is meant to represent a
door to the afterlife, or a means for the deceased to return from the grave.
Perhaps it's just somebody's idea of black humour - the occupant being deader
than a doorknob.
This "life sized" wooden sculpture
of the Childe Of Hale used to stand opposite St Mary's Church. It was carved
from a diseased beech tree by the sculptor Philip Bews in 1996. Unfortunately
in 2013 it had to be removed for safety reasons after the wood started to rot
away, riddled with beetle bore holes.
The villagers of Hale felt that the Bews'
sculpture had been quite a big draw to the village and they wanted a new one.
It was replaced that same year by a bronze statue standing 3m tall created by
local sculptor, Diane Gorvin.
The new
statue can be found further along Church End. Explaining the piece Gorvin said:
"I've depicted him as if he's just paused on a walk, leaning on a stick
and looking across towards the cottage where he lives. It gives people the
opportunity to stand next to him, hold his hand and look up to him. I'm hoping
it will become an important part of Hale village.
Manor House
The
impressive property behind the statue is Hale Manor House, originally built as
a vicarage in the mid 17th century and today a Grade II listed building. In the
early 18th century it was refaced and partially rebuilt. It was used as a
farmhouse during the 19th century and was known as Manor Farm. The last lord of
the manor was Peter Fleetwood-Hesketh, an architectural historian who moved
into the house with his family in 1947.
The
house was the subject of a poem by Sir John Betjeman no less, imaginitively
entitled:
The Manor House, Hale, Near Liverpool
In early twilight I can hear,
A faintly-ticking clock,
While near and far and far and near
Is Liverpool baroque
And when the movement meets the hour
To tell it, stroke by stroke,
“Rococo,” say the pendulum,
“Baroque, baroque, baroak.”
Encrusted vases crowd the hall,
Dark paintings grace the stairs
And from the wild wind’s harp withal
Sound soft Lancastrian airs.
On a bend sable three garbs or –
Th’ achievements hold my gaze;
Though fierce without the tempests roar
The banner scarcely sways.
O’er Mersey mud and Mersey flood,
Rust-red above the folly
How trimly rides the brick facade,
As flimsy as a folly
The Manor House, the green, the church –
From Runcorn to West Kirby
You will not Find howe’er you search
So sweet a rus in urbe
Within
sight of Gorvin's statue, just across Church End from the Manor House is this
lovely thatched cottage which was formerly
the home of John Middleton. I paused and studied the two small upstairs
windows on the gable end of the cottage, and wondered whether the McCartneys
had known of the old story about John which says that owing to his enormous
height he had to sleep with a foot poking out of each.
A
plaque commemorating the former home of the Childe of Hale
Passing
the Childe of Hale pub we reach the heart of the village where the impressive
war memorial stands with a field gun as a relic of wars past. Ahead is Town
Lane and Barry Miles writes that "On their way back the McCartneys would
stop at a teashop called the Elizabethan Cottage on Town Lane for a pot of tea,
Hovis toast and home-made jam. It was a pleasant, genteel interlude, a touch of
quality before they walked back to their very different life among the new grey
houses and hard concrete roads of the housing estate" (McCartney, Many
Years from Now, Barry Miles)
I could
find no mention of the Elizabethan Cottage or tea rooms on Town Lane. There are
a number of older cottages which may have served as a tea room back in the
1950s but today they all appear to be private dwellings. Unable to turn up any
information on line I sought assistance from the Visit Hale Village Facebook
page, hoping a local historian might know.
Almost immediately I received this
reply: Yes, there used to be Tea Rooms on Town Lane, it was next to the old
Estate Cottages - these cottages are
still there - opposite the Wellington Pub bus stop, but the Tea Rooms have long
since been taken down, they were constructed out of wood. I have a photo of it
in our archives. I will dig it out and send it over to you.
How's
that for service?!
Stonehouse Teas, (far left) the tea
rooms on Town Lane. The interior shot shows the tea rooms set up for a wedding
reception, circa late 1940s early 1950s. Curiously nobody seems to recall the
tea rooms trading as the Elizabethan Cottage. I wonder where Miles got the name
from?
Refreshed,
the McCartneys, if the mood took them, would cut through Hale Park and return
to the cliff top for the walk back to Dungeon Lane. If they were in a rush to
get home they'd walk the 2 miles back along High Street and Hale Road, perhaps
catching sight of Harold Harrison making his way back to Speke after a few
hours work on his allotment, eventually turning up Eastern Avenue.
Notes:
Hale is officially known by the Post Office
as Hale Village. But it's not a village at all. It's a township. And its chief
citizen is not a chairman, or a mayor, but a full-blown Lord Mayor. This is not
pretentiousness. Hale got its charter before Liverpool, even if only just. King
John granted Hale its charter in 1203. Liverpool had to wait another four
years, until 1207.
The entire area was historically in
Lancashire and the residents of Hale may still speak with this accent rather
than Scouse but today the township is actually part of Cheshire, despite still
having a Liverpool area postcode (L24).
Whether John Middleton, the Childe of Hale,
ever exceeded a height of nine feet - greater than the tallest human ever known
- may never be confirmed. The Guinness World Records has only recorded 10
confirmed or reliable cases of humans reaching over 8ft in height. Robert Wadlow, from the US state of Illinois,
measured 8ft 11in (2.72m) when he died in 1940 - the tallest man in medical
history.
*Unless Harold had one of the burgage plots
that use to be attached to each of the cottages on the High Street. These were
long gardens near the Drill Hall as seen in the map above.
Much thanks to the Visit Hale Village
Facebook page for their great assistance with this post.